BMW Microfilter – A Breath of Fresh Air

Having a clean and functioning microfilter in your BMW is extremely important as it promotes clean air circulation throughout the cabin while running your A/C or heater.  This filter should be changed during the Inspection II service or major tune-up on your BMW.  In San Diego we see many of these filters completely clogged with dust, dirt and debris.  With the wildfire season upon us in San Diego and Southern California clean air is of utmost importance. 

YUK!!!

Your microfilter is exactly the same as the filter you’ll see in any home heating or air conditioning system, except it probably doesn’t get as much attention.  The microfilter rests in front of the interior fan/blower of the vehicle and as air is pulled into the cabin, most all particles and dirt is filtered out. On virtually all BMWs built after 1999, it is very easy to change and something you can do yourself usually without the use of any tools. 

Spray to eliminate musty odors

Another danger of an old filter is that once clogged, the interior fan will have a difficult time pulling air into the car.  I have seen many cases where a customer will complain that their fan seems to be working but there is no air coming out of the vents while the A/C is on.  We’ll pull out the microfilter only to see it completely clogged with dirt, dust, bird feathers, bugs, dry cleaning stubs,  etc.  Old mircofilters can also produce a musty smell while the A/C is on.  Above the technician is spraying an anti-bacterial treatment on the new filter.

In San Diego, we can service or check your microfilter at any time.  Hopefully we will have an uneventful fire season, but if you live in an area affected by fires I strongly recommend that this filter, as well as your air filter, be changed out once things return to normal.

Stay Clean and Breathe Fresh!

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego.

Your BMW Warranty has expired – What now??

Once the factory warranty expires on your BMW, it can be a scary thing.  If your philosophy toward car care is the old “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” you’ll need to change your views on car maintenance or head down to trade it in for a new one. 

Over the past 5 years I’ve noticed an incredible pattern with BMW owners.  They have little or no problems while under the warranty, which is not surprising as today’s automobiles are usually symptom free for the first 4 years or 50k miles.  They will have one or two little issues pop up from 50-70k miles which they will pay for out of pocket, and it’ll typically be expensive but not painful.   Things are honky-dory for the next year or so until 80k rolls around, then the car will basically need about $3,000 in catch-up work and they wind up hating their car.  Ouch! 

If your warranty expires today, here’s a few starters to keep the car going strong and to keep your wallet out of harm’s way.

1.  Find an independent BMW Service facility that you can trust or that was recommended to you by a friend.  Independent Facilities will save you a lot of money, but they can also take you for a ride so proceed with caution.  Visit http://www.bimrs.org.  This website hosts a network of Independent BMW Service Facilities across the world and will most likely have a member shop in your area.  I can’t vouch for all of them, but this is a great starting point in finding a good Independent BMW Service facility.

2.  Get an oil change!  Chances are you’re way past due.  Sticking to the 15,000 mile oil change policy is a great way to kill your BMW.  After that oil change, get your next one done “on the fives”  This will make things easy for you as your oil changes will be done at 55, 60, 65, 70k, etc.

3.  Get your BMW detailed.  Keeping the paint and interior clean and fresh will keep you happy to drive the car.  No one wants to drive a car that some kid fingered the words “Wash Me” on the rear glass.  Clean cars look good, detailed cars look incredible.

4. Plan ahead.  During your first visit to an Independent BMW Service facility, get a list of things to expect in the future, with estimates, so you know what’s coming down the road.  In general, people like surprises, but not the ones that clean out your bank account.

Customers always ask me if they should keep their cars.   There is always a balance to strike between age of the car and the costs associated with it compared to owning a new one.  While the comfort of a new BMW with a blanket warranty is nice, it is not always an option.  BMWs still remain to be a great car that can run forever, they just need a little more help than they did in the 80’s.  If you are out of the warranty period, and you’re going to keep the car, try to get on these four things as soon as possible for smooth sailing in the future.

 

Chris Keefer

 

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW Service on Saturday in San Diego

La Jolla Independent BMW Service is now Open Saturdays from 9am-1pm.  So if you live in San Diego and need your BMW Serviced or Repaired at least you’ll be able to get it to us on a non work day.  For those of you that live further away and want to get down to our shop to check out the classics and interesting pieces, also feel free to stop by.

We have been open the last few Saturdays, but mostly to play ‘catch-up’ from the prior week.  We’ll be able to get the following services completed same day:

Oil Changes

Inspection II

Cooling System Replacement

Brakes

Depending on your year and model, other services will be available as a same day service.

Oil and your BMW – Which is the Best?

There really is no ‘best’ oil to pour in the engine of your BMW, after all, if there was one that shined completely above the rest you’d be buying it.  Engine Oil has always been a great debate for those that are a bit serious about their service.  I sometimes feel that debating about oil brands is much like squabbling over which Brewery produces the best Lager.  I love beer, and I’ve had some really crap beers (especially in college) and I’ve had some really good beers.  Same can be said for Oil.  Crappy oil is the stuff that is really cheap, has generic packaging and there is usually almost all of it still on the shelf – the ‘Natrual Light’ of oils.  Hopefully none of you are using that stuff, or worse yet, drinking that sort of beer.

I find that the most common oils in the great debate are Mobile-1, Castrol, Royal Purple, and Amsoil.  I should say that I am not a fluids expert, I’ve done no crazy amount of testing on any of these oils, nor have I read 15 different case studies that have — this is all based on experience (and opinion).  Aside from all the great things that oil does for any engine, modern BMWs need oil to feed both the Vanos unit(s) as well as the hydraulic lifters (if your engine has them).  Now for my super scientific test results.

Mobil-1

I don’t like Mobil-1.  It’s the most popular oil, and a lot of folks swear by it, but I just don’t like it.  Many cars come in to the shop with the engine sounding like a rotating barrel of marbles and most of them have one thing in common — the owner uses nothing but Mobil-1.  One customer had a 1998 M3 running Mobil-1 and his hydraulic lifters were making a racket with Mobil-1; I switched him into Castrol Syntec 5w-30 and within 30 seconds the valve noise was almost completely gone.  I’m sure that Mobil-1 is a good oil, it just doesn’t seem to agree with BMWs all the time for some reason, so I never use it and never will.

Amsoil

I just can’t use this stuff.  It reminds me of Avon cosmetics and buying encyclopedia’s from a door-to-door salesman.  The guys who are selling it always seem to remind me of a cross between a shoe salesman and the ‘kids’ who try to sell me magazines to support their baseball team when they are clearly 10 years past their last time at bat for little league.  If you’re not smart enough to come up with a decent marketing plan, what makes me think your oil is any good?  I just don’t trust it, and a BMW engine is not the platform to ‘try something new and different!’

Castrol Syntec

Talk about marketing, these guys have it handled.  BMW has been endorsing Castrol since the early 1990’s and I have to say that I’ve never had anything but good results using Castrol.  I think it is a great oil and seems to do really well in BMWs.  It is reasonably priced, and you pretty much can get it anywhere.  If you are using it and like it, stick with it.  Tip- you can buy ‘factory oil’ at your nearest dealership, which is Castrol Syntec in a BMW bottle, at almost a dollar less per quart.

Royal Purple

This stuff is expensive.  I know some people that love it and I ask them why and they really don’t have a valid answer.  It’s usually two to five dollars more per quart than the others and I just don’t see the need to be ultra spendy.  It’s kinda like buying corn flakes at Whole Foods, same basic flake, but at the Whole Foods price.  It seems to be really good oil, but at that price why bother? There are other options that are great and less expensive.

What do we use? Here’s a list of the current engine oils that we have had the best luck with along with their applications:

Kendall 20w-50

In my opinion this is the best oil you can put in your BMW if it requires non-synthetic oil.  The only problem with Kendall is that it can be hard to get in the retail market.  A good alternative would be Castrol GTX.

Castrol Syntec 5w-30

This is the factory recommended oil and it works great and it is reasonably priced.

Elf (or Total) 5w-30

Elf oil has long been popular in the European market and well known in F-1 racing.  They tried to introduce it to the US market in the early 1990’s but no one could get past the name ‘Elf’ as it reminds us of little guys climbing out trees with a boxes of cookies.  So they are now using the name ‘Total’ for the US market and I really like this oil. 

I first gave Elf a try in my drama queen of an M5 which was consuming about 2 quarts of oil every 3k miles with the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.  Using Elf’s 10w-60 has cut my oil consumption in half, and when I change my oil I like the way the used oil looks in comparison. My car just seems happier with it.

Elf 10w-60 and Castrol TWS 10w-60

These oils are for use in newer M-series engines and are expensive.  Of the two, I highly recommend the Elf based solely on the results it has produced on my own car. 

All things considered, everyone needs to relax a bit about oil.  There’s really not one oil that is best across the board.  If you are overly concerned about oil, read different oil comparison test results, or you’re sending used oil samples out for analysis, this tells me that you are doing one thing right – changing your oil frequently enough. 

The best thing you can do is frequent oil changes no matter what you are using, and to continually check your oil level between changes.  Like I tell my customers, vegetable oil is better than none at all . . .

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW and Brakes – it’s not just the brake pads

If you have a BMW produced after 1992, and your brake lining light appears, you’ll need a brake job that will consist of new brake pads and new brake rotors.  I know, it sucks and it’s more expensive; but it’s not all bad.  This is the brake warning for newer BMWs equipped with iDrive (I’m starting to like iDrive), and it’s starting to cause some confusion . . .

This warning light will come on when one of the two brake pad sensors in your BMW has been activated.  The brake pad will wear down until the sensor is cut into by the rotor and the light or warning will appear.  There is no rotor sensor.  Brake rotors have a minimum thickness requirement specified by the manufacturer in order that the rotor can dissipate heat properly, maintain brake performance, and prevent warping of the rotor.  While performing a brake job on a BMW, the technician should measure this thickness and proceed accordingly.  I’d say that 95% of the time the brake rotor is either at or below the minimum thickness requirement and will need to be replaced. 

In the case above the minimum thickness required is 20.4mm, and as you can see this rotor is just below at 20.11mm.  This rotor is now worth its weight in scrap iron.  Many have heard of ‘turning the rotor’ which is a process where the brake rotor surface is slightly shaved down to give it a renewed and clean surface.  If you have a Chevy or Toyota, you might be able to use your rotors 2 or 3 times before they need replacement, but not on your BMW.

BMW is very concerned about performance, the more weight you have out near the wheels, the less crisp and responsive the handling becomes and BMW wants to minimize that weight.  Brake Rotors are HEAVY.  BMW has been able to eliminate a decent amount of this weight by making the rotors a little thinner than other manufacturers, while maintaining incredible performance. The bad news is that you only get to use them once.  The good news is that this is just another example of BMW striving to have the best handling cars on the road.

So . . . when you get that phone call and you find out that you not only need brake pads, but rotors as well, it’s not that the shop is trying to pull one over on you — it’s just the nature of the BMW brake system.

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW and You – 10 things You can do

Working on your own car used to be a big part of Americana, but with the increasing amount of computers, wires, and nifty engine covers, those days are gone.  However, there are some things you can do to keep your BMW running and looking good, and they are simple.

1. Check your oil

Do this on the first day of each month.  You might want to stuff a rag in your trunk that you use only to check the oil level.  At La Jolla Independent BMW, we sometimes put a spare quart of oil in our customers’ trunks so that they can re-fill if needed.  If you have a newer BMW without an oil dipstick, you can do an oil level check via the on-board computer — learn how to do this.  Proper oil level and oil changes are essential to the longevity of your BMW.

 

2. Wash it, clay it, wax it – or find someone who can.

It can be time-consuming and, depending on where you live, it might be illegal for you to do it in your driveway.  However, your paint is continually bombarded with dirt and environmental fallout that can destroy its finish.  I recommend that you have a complete detail done to your BMW at least twice a year that would include claying the car, followed by a waxing of the paint.  Buffing the paint can also be beneficial, but should only be performed by an experienced detailer.

3. Keep gas in the tank

“Quarter-tankers” are those who cruise into the gas station running on fumes and put a whopping $10 worth of gas in the tank to get them around.  Unless you are selling your car tomorrow, fill the damn tank up!  While Jackson Browne loves “Running on Empty”, your BMW hates it and will lead to future repair bills that can be avoided.

4. Check your tire pressure

Buy a tire pressure gauge and keep it in the glove box.  When you are filling up your tank at the gas station, check your tire pressure.  On the inside of your driver’s door, there is a rough guide for proper pressure.  Just because it looks like there is enough air in the tires, doesn’t mean there is.  Check it regularly to save your tires and maximize your handling and gas mileage.

5. Exercise your windows and sunroof

I replace a lot of window regulators (they make the window go up and down).  Usually I replace them on the windows that are used the least.  Opening and closing all of your BMW’s windows and sunroof on a regular basis will keep them lubricated and functioning properly.  Just don’t do it while it’s raining out.

6. Be careful in parking lots/garages

BMWs are low in the front, and have many plastic components that don’t get along with bumper strips in parking lots and garages.  I constantly see and repair torn bumpers and fender liners due to these bumper strips.  If you frequent areas that have these, park the car about a foot shorter into the spot as so you don’t introduce your plastic to concrete.

7. Use your A/C, even if you don’t use A/C

Aside from Freon in your air conditioning system, there is also a decent amount of oil to keep the compressor and other components working to full potential.  If they sit for too long without movement, it will lead to a noisy compressor ($$$) and dry seals.  If you live in a cold climate, at least turn the A/C on twice in the winter for about 5 minutes to get it moving.

8. Open your hood

Even if you haven’t a clue what you’re looking at, if you opened your hood and saw a bird’s nest in there you’d know it doesn’t belong (I’ve seen this happen).  You might actually see something amiss such as an oil leak or cracked belts and save yourself from a break-down.

9. Drive it, drive it, drive it

BMWs hate to sit around as much as a kid with a wicked case of ADD.  These cars were built to be driven hard, not abused, but driven hard.  If you are driving around like a grandmother on her way to Sunday mass, take it out on the freeway once in awhile and put the pedal to the metal and let it run free a bit. 

10. Know your maintenance and keep a journal.

Understanding what repairs you’ve done in the past and what is needed in the future allows you to plan ahead and keeps your BMW running strong.  If you hear a weird noise that only happens once in awhile, write down when it happens, how fast you are going, time of day, etc. as it will greatly assist your BMW mechanic in getting to the root of the problem.

None of these things are difficult to do. Remember, I don’t have your car on a daily basis, you do.  Staying on top of these simple things will decrease the amount you spend on service per year, prevent avoidable damage to your BMW, and retain as much of the car’s value as possible when you decide to sell.

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW Air Filters – things to know about ‘performance filters’

One thing that I cannot explain enough to people is that there is no way in hell you’ll feel a significant change in horsepower in your BMW by switching to a different kind of air filter.  The most popular of which is K&N filters, which are more of a screen filter with some foam that utilizes a special oil to help it filter.  Your local auto parts store will usually have some sort of demonstration with a ping-pong ball that floats higher over one of these filters when compared to its stock counterpart.  That’s all fine and dandy, but the last time I checked, there weren’t any ping-pong balls in my engine bay. 

I’ve also seen many graphs when one of these filters are installed, and the car is put on a dynometer with the end result being a gain in horsepower and torque.  Before getting all giddy, these ‘gains’ are usually about 3-5 horsepower on an engine that produces over 250hp, giving an end result of about a 1-2% gain from that $65 filter you just bought.  Remember too that dynometers have a certain margin of error that can produce a different result through many tests. With any modification, I want to feel it in my seat.  The only way you’ll feel one of these filters in your seat is if you were to put it underneath your butt.

They also create problems for your engine management system as well as your valve train.  These filters are usually soaked in oil to capture the smaller particles that would normally be captured by a traditional air filter.  The oil does a great job doing this, but the engine will naturally suck that oil, with the particles in it, into the combustion chamber a little at a time.  That oil will basically coat anything in its path and cling to it.  On modern BMWs the main concern is that of the air metering device, which will either be an Air Flow Meter or an Air Mass Meter.  Neither of these likes to be dirty, and can result in false data being supplied to the brain of your BMW, or DME as it is commonly called.  Another long term effect of using these filters will be dirty intake valves which will drop your engine’s efficiency.

Keep in mind that with any modification, there can be positives and negatives when you look at the big picture.  I love getting more performance out of my BMW as much as the next person, but there are many things to consider when making any sort of modification.  As a general rule, increased engine performance will usually result in a drop in reliability and longevity.  If you want a significant horsepower or torque increase that you can feel, I would start with a performance engine management chip or a flash download on your BMW.  Changes in the computer can give you significant gains that can be measured, and felt in the seat of your pants.  Changing to a ’performance’ air filter will only leave you with a few dollars less in your wallet, and an engine that is slowly getting bombarded with dirt and oil instead of clean air.

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW Inspection II – The Major Tune-Up

If you are driving around right now and the words ‘Inspection -3458 miles’ shows up, chances are that you are due for a major tune up or Inspection II.  This is another example of what I call the BMW language barrier.  I grew up in New Jersey.  In New Jersey when you need an ‘Inspection’ that means you’ll be heading to the local DMV testing station where they test your brakes, lights, and run an emissions test.  In California, ‘Inspection’ means nothing, so many ignore it.  What it should read is ‘Tune-Up.’   Some ‘places’ have an interesting philosophy as to what should be done during the Inspection II, these same ‘places’ also tell you that you only have to change your oil every 15,000 miles.  So, what exactly constitutes a proper tune-up on a BMW?? 

What we try to do during the Inspection II, is to change every single servicable item on the car that we can. We recommend this service about every 25k miles or every 2 years. The meat and potatoes of this is typically the following:

1. Oil change, transmission fluid change, differential fluid change.

These are the three basic fluids that allow the car to keep moving.  On the side of every BMW transmission you will find the words “Lifetime Oil.”  Which means that you never have to change the fluid, as it is good for the lifetime of the transmission . . . . well . . . all that means is that when the transmission dies that the fluid is still in there.  See where I’m going with this?  It is essential to change your BMW transmission fluid with every tune up to increase the ‘lifetime’ of the transmission.  Transmissions range from about $4-6K installed.  If you can get another 50-75k miles out of the transmission by simply changing the fluid, it’s worth it.  The differential allows the rear wheels to turn and also can benefit from fresh oil and the engine oil change is part of every tune up.

2. Spark Plugs changed and valves adjusted (when possible).

Some cars, mostly older, have adjustable valves.  Having the proper valve clearance is essential to how your BMW performs.  If valves are too tight, or too loose, it can damage the engine.  The spark plug issue is a great one.  Spark plugs are good for about 30k miles tops.  Many are of the opinion that they last for 100k miles, which they can, but not without costing you.  Time after time I review customers’ past bills and I see that they have bought ignition coils at about $90 a piece.  The ignition coils allow the spark plug to fire while the engine is running.  What I never see on those bills is the purchase or installation of new spark plugs, which cost about $16 a piece at the high end.  What has happened is that the plugs are so worn that the coils are continually stressed out and ultimately fail in their efforts in getting a limping spark plug to keep firing.  I’d rather spend $16 on a plug, than $90 on a coil — plus my engine will run better.

 

3.  Air filter, Fuel filter, interior microfilter

These are all basic items that promote clean air and clean fuel.  The interior microfilter cleans the air that enters the passenger compartment.  I’ve seen these filters so clogged that barely any air will come out of the vents when the A/C is on.  If your car has a funky smell when you have the A/C on, chances are that your filter is bad.

In addition to these items a good Inspection II should also provide an inspection of the entire car.  Check the suspension, check the tires, look for alignment issues, and check the brakes.  Check all mounting points for the engine, transmission and differential, as well as inspecting the driveshaft for any faults. A general look at all the safety items to make sure that they are functioning properly (but we don’t test airbags).  Generally you want to have all the door hinges lubricated and the weatherstripping treated with protectant.  We also scan every single module on your car to see if there are any issues worth investigating, and re-set your ‘Inspection’ light.

What is most important is that the technician that performs your Inspection II is familiar with your car and the possible issues that may arise.  Like I said before, I’m not too privy to Mercedes Benz and the different issues that certain models have.  What I am able to do on any BMW however, is to zero-in on areas of the car that are known to present driveability or safety issues, and address them accordingly.  Knowing how to change all of the tune-up items is great, but knowing the car you are working on is so much more valuable.  It allows me to give you a detailed report of what your car needs now, and what it might need 6 months from now, allowing you to plan ahead instead of getting hit with a big repair bill at a bad time.

A proper Inspection II Service is probably the best thing that you can stay committed to during your ownership of a BMW.  It keeps the car efficient, well tuned, and most importantly, you’ll be well informed.

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

 

 

BMW Service – Understanding Your Bill

No one likes to spend money on their car, I hate it as much as you.  However, it’s a fact of life that all cars will at least need gas and oil changes in order that they continue to serve you on a daily basis.  BMWs require more than the average car, but less than others.  Needless to say, luxury cars usually produce luxury maintenance bills, as they are of a higher performance and have more electronic gagets that can break or fail for no apparant reason.  When customers bring their BMW to my shop in San Diego, I feel as though my number one job is to make them understand what they are buying and why.  To me, that’s just as important as fixing their BMW properly. 

So, lets just say you brought your BMW to get it serviced and it was recommended that you have an Inspection II performed and your control arm bushings needed repair.  The service advisor tells you that the total cost will amount to about $1000.  Do you know what you are getting?  Did you understand what he or she told you?  Did you just say ok?  Stop.  I see a lot of past bills provided by customers, and in many cases I’m a bit shocked as to what they were charged for, and even more shocked about what things were not done to the car that should have been.  In addition, these bills are extremely difficult to read and are chock-full of words and sentances that just seem to fill the page and nickle and dime the poor bastard up to a $1000 with not much being done.  Call it illegal, call it un-ethical, but that poor bastard was the one that approved it all.  No wonder mechanics have a bad name, they’ve earned it.

Before we get into your $1000 BMW service or repair bill, I think it’s important that I point out that running a shop is expensive.  At my shop in San Diego we carry a lot of BMW parts in inventory, and BMW parts are expensive.  We’ve got the property to pay for, the tools to pay for, oils, fluids, computers, employees, worker’s comp, insurance, etc. etc.  This stuff is expensive, and it is all necessary in order that we exist, and yes, you’ll help pay for it.  It’s a fact of life.

One question I get asked frequently is “What is your labor rate?”  This is probably the worst factor to determine where to bring your BMW.  What you should ask is “How much does a brake job cost?” for example.  Why is this important?  Let’s do a comparison.  You can go to ‘Brakes ’R Us’ where the labor rate is $85/hr. for the brake job where they will use standard (code for cheapest available) pads and rotors, and slap it all together and send you on your way for about $850 in the end for all four wheels.  Then there is us, La Jolla Independent BMW Service, where the labor rate is more.  We use High quality rotors such as Brembo, and higher performance pads such as Mintex, which we’ve tested on hundreds of cars and found better performance and very low dust accumulation on wheels.  We’ll clean and lubricate every brake component, and send you on your way.  Price is about $725 for the same job.  Why?

Unfotunately I don’t have all the answers as to why certain shops charge what they charge or operate how they do.  What you need to do as a customer is understand what you are paying for — make the service facility do that, if they can’t, go elsewhere.  Look at your bill!  Check to see what was done, and look to see what they charged you for.  Were you charged 0.25 hours for them to check your brake light bulbs?  If so, you just got charged almost $20 by the guys that charge $75/hr. to have one guy step on the brake pedal while another guy says “yep, they all work.”   Look for parts on your bill, many bills have a ton of 0.25, 0.15, 0.35 labor items that all add up while the actual parts list that went into the car is rather short.  We have a pretty clear bill to understand as far as BMW Service is concerned.  Parts are in one column and labor in another, both easy to understand and clear to read. 

With any car, not just BMWs, the most important thing you can find is a service center that you trust and can rely upon.  It’s worth its weight in gold.  Ask around, talk to other owners, and make sure that you feel comfortable when you’re in for repair.  Like I said, everyone hates spending money on their car, but if you get the most bang for your buck, and feel comfortable with the services that you are getting, it makes that $1000 bill a bit easier to swallow.

Happy Motoring!

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service

Spark Plugs are Spark Plugs on a BMW, Right?? WRONG!

If you are inclined to change your own spark plugs on your BMW there are some things you need to know before heading out to the local auto parts store . . . just cause it’ll fit, doesn’t mean that it’s correct.  There are many areas of the auto parts industry where quality and sound advice has taken a back seat to marketing and profit margins.  One of these areas is the good old spark plug.  I’m going to attempt to keep this simple and not too technical, which basically means you’ll have to trust me. (trust me, now that’s  mechanic line if I’ve ever heard one.)

When you go to the auto parts store and order spark plugs for your 1985 535i they will have a neat little diplay that has about 5 different spark plugs ranging from what looks like a normal plug to one that looks like a space probe on the end.  The guy behind the counter will tell you your options, all of them with code numbers that make no sense and he’ll eventually tell you how great the platinum ones are with the 4 prongs at the top.   STOP!  You need to go in there knowing exactly what you need, and getting only that item.  Most people will get the platinum spark plugs by the way.

I used the ‘85 535i as it takes a special plug, the Bosch WR9LS; a bit expensive as it has a silver core and the platinum plug that fits will probably be less expensive.  This car hates any other spark plug.  Spark plugs are funny things, they will all work, but not really work all the same.  When BMW produces a car, they go through tons of engineering testing and design, work out a fuel injection and ignition system and then specify a spark plug that will work best with this combination.  The guys at the auto parts stores look at a spark plug, figure out which cars it will fit, and then offer it for sale and push the ones with the highest profit margin.

Remember that your ignition system (this controls spark) has a specific design and was also designed at a particular time in automotive history.  If you own a 1972 BMW 2002, it takes a simple spark plug, there was no such thing as a 4 prong platinum plug in the early 70’s in mass produced automobiles so don’t use it.  The plug will not be optimized and neither will your car.  Plug gaps are also of importance.  In most repair books the specified gap will be the original gap provided by the manufacturer, some of which have changed.  It had been found that if you increased the plug gap for a 1990 325i it would result in a smoother idle as well as a boost in performance.  Regardless of what year your BMW was built, spark plugs should be changed during every Inspection II Service, which is BMW talk for the major tune-up.

Here’s a great link from NGK on ‘reading’ spark plugs.  The older your BMW the more this will apply, and BMW’s built post 1995 will barely apply to this information.  Good nonetheless.

Reading your spark plugs

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service