BMW Modifications – Do this First

Before you start dumping gobs of horsepower into your BMW or installing the latest and greatest coil-over kit, learn how to drive it first!  It’ll cost you a heck of a lot less money, you’ll have tons of fun, and in the end you’ll actually know a lot more about your car and your limitations as a driver.

 I was at a confrence in St. Louis a few years ago and hanging at the hotel bar with current NASCAR driver Boris Said.  He had just purchased a new M5 and was just about ready to get rid of the car.  I asked him why.  His answer, ’it’s just to damn fast to drive around town’   

However, I can pretty much guarantee that as these words came out of his mouth, Joe-Racer Boy was online ordering some sort of turbo-charger kit for the same car.  He’ll probably wreck it a week after it gets installed.  It never ceases to amaze me that while BMW continues to make faster and better handling cars, that some tuner company will offer all kinds of shit for people to buy.   Learn to drive first!!  Here’s how . . .

Your local BMWCCA Chapter will be of great resource in your new quest of driving perfection.  A good first step is to sign up for an Autocross event.  Autocross is a full day of driving around a ‘track’ that has been set-up with cones in a large parking lot. In San Diego we might have one of the better autocross events, as most of them are two-day events and they are held at Qualcomm Stadium; a huge lot with interesting dips and slopes.  Autocross is the best $50-70 you can spend, and in general it is a very safe experience for both you and your car.  The BMW Car Club will have several experienced instructors present offering in-car instruction, and they’ll serve you lunch.  When the autocross ends, you’ll have a huge smile on your face, you’ll know a lot more about your car, and you’ll realize that you need a lot more practice!

Driving school would be the next option and has a much different feel than an Autocross.  You’ll be on a real track, it’ll be a full weekend event, and you’ll learn a hell of a lot more than the Autocross events that you’ve attended in the past.  Driving schools are also offered by the BMWCCA along with several private schools depending on which track is in your area.  Prices on these schools vary depending on location and duration. 

One huge benefit in all of this ‘learning to drive’ stuff is that it might actually save your life one day.  If you do all of this before you bolt on a turbo kit or spend thousands on a suspension kit, you might find that your car is fine the way it is or scale back the modifications to better suit your needs as a recreational driver.

Have Fun!

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW Cup Holders – Why do they break all the time?

Cup holders on BMWs are usually downright junk.  If you have an e39 5-series you probably know exactly what I’m talking about — they’re flimsy, they don’t really hold much more than a can of soda, and if you blow on them too hard they snap in half.  What’s the point??

It wasn’t until the late ’90s that BMW finally made them standard equipment on most models while other manufacturers had been implementing them for years.  The main reason for this is probably a cultural one.  Germans, as a whole, do not bring food into their cars.  Most wouldn’t even fathom it.  The only thing that Germans typically would do while driving in their car is smoke.  Which is why all BMWs seem to have an adequate ashtray and lighter that is reachable and convenient.

The best piece of advice I can give regarding cup holders is to simply leave them alone, especially if you own a 7-series.  They aren’t that cheap to replace, and they will certainly break again.  Aftermarket alternatives available as well as retrofit kits that are much more substantial and work pretty well.  My favorite of which, pictured above, is easily installed into the cubby hole of an e39 center console.

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW Body Designations – Which “e” is my BMW?

While at your BMW Service Center you might have overhead a lot of “e” words, and possibly some “f” and “s” words, but terms such as e36, e60 and e28 have a distinct meaning to BMW technicians and enthusiasts.  For instance, if you have a 2003 330i, it is termed an e46.  These ‘e’ terms are used to identify BMW Body style design depending on the look and year of your BMW.  E is short for “Entwicklung” which is the German word for development, or to link the ‘e’, evolution. 

If all these terms are Greek to you, here is a list that should prove helpful in determining the code name of your BMW.

3 Series

1976-1983 – e21

1984-1991 – e30 (convertibles produced in 1992 also fell into this category)

1992-1999 – e36

1999-2006 – e46 (some sedans were produced in 1998)

2006-present – e90(sedan), e91(wagon), e92(coupe), e93(convertible) 

 

5 Series

1974-1981 – e12

1982-1988 – e28

1989-1995 – e34

1996-2003 – e39 (there is no official 5 series sold as a 1996 in the US Market)

2004-present – e60(sedan), e61(wagon)

 

6 Series

1976-1989 – e24

2004-present – e63(coupe), e64(convertible)

 

7 Series

1977-1986 – e23

1986-1994 - e32

1994-2001 – e38

2002-present – e65 thru e68

 

Other Models

X5 – e53 from 2000-2006 and e70 from 2006-present

X3 – e83

Z3 – e36 (same as 3series, sometimes called an e36/7 or e36/8)

Z4 – e85, e86

1 Series – e87

8 series – e31

The new 7 series, due out shortly, will be dubbed the F01. BMW has decided to drop the ‘e’ designations and start with F for some reason (can’t count to 100 maybe?).  In any case, I hope this guide gives a better understanding of all the ‘e’ talk you hear when you’re in for service.  If you bring your BMW into us for Service in San Diego, don’t be bashful using these terms as it’s much quicker to say e46 than it is to say 2001 3 series 4 door.  

Drive Safe!

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW of the Week – 1973 BMW 3.0cs – BARN FIND!

“Barn Finds” are talked about rather frequently amongst classic car collectors, no matter their preference in automobiles.  It’s a story of driving down a country road and out of the corner of your eye you see the sun reflecting off the chrome of a car just sitting half covered in a shack.  After approaching the owner you come to find that it belonged to their grandfather and has just been “sitting there” since the 70’s . . .

This RARELY happens.  With the dawn of the internet and increased popularity of classic cars, the possibility of a car like this slipping into your fingers is almost impossible.  However, this 1973 3.0cs is a true and ultimate “Barn Find.”  As I’ve said before, I’ve seen and worked on hundreds of 3.0cs cars and this, by far, is the most amazing one I’ve ever seen.

Ceylon is one of my favorite colors, but is not liked by all.  It was orginally delivered to a family in Utah where it was hardley driven and spent most of its time garaged inside a barn on their property.  The gentleman who owned the car pasted away and left it to his grand-daughter.  The current owner begged her to sell it for over 3 years until she finally agreed.  Current mileage is 22,619.  

 

Original engine break-in procedure sticker and emissions sticker still on the original glass with the right amount of fading and shrinking.

 

Trunk linings and tool kit as delivered. 

The engine bay is completely original.  I took off the air cleaner to make a few carburator adjustments and the carbs looked and adjusted as if they were installed yesterday.

The interior is very clean with the original wood and leather showing very minor wear if any at all.

The Trim and Chrome throughout the car is in immaculate condition.  Today’s chrome is not of the same quality and depth, so it is a real treat to see such exceptional chrome on this car.

If you know your 3.0cs cars, you’ll see a tiny detail in this picture that is yet another tribute to how clean and original this car really is.

I know what the customer paid for this car and I can tell you his persistence paid off.  This car is just not replaceable.  I’ve seen no other coupe in the world that can touch this one as far as its overall original condition.  It has not been restored, never been re-painted and it boasts an amazing amount of preservation.  The owner removed the cardboard engine belly pan in order to save it.  I’ve only seen one 3.0cs belly pan in the last 7 years and I’m not certain it was original!

If you want me to put a dollar figure on this car so be it.  If I owned it, there’s not a snow-ball’s change in hell that I’m letting anyone grab it for under $150,000.  This car is just too incredible.  A time-capsul of a car and I’m fortunate I was able to work on it, and meet its new owner.  It’s in very safe and appreciative hands.

Chris Keefer

 

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

Your BMW Warranty has expired – What now??

Once the factory warranty expires on your BMW, it can be a scary thing.  If your philosophy toward car care is the old “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” you’ll need to change your views on car maintenance or head down to trade it in for a new one. 

Over the past 5 years I’ve noticed an incredible pattern with BMW owners.  They have little or no problems while under the warranty, which is not surprising as today’s automobiles are usually symptom free for the first 4 years or 50k miles.  They will have one or two little issues pop up from 50-70k miles which they will pay for out of pocket, and it’ll typically be expensive but not painful.   Things are honky-dory for the next year or so until 80k rolls around, then the car will basically need about $3,000 in catch-up work and they wind up hating their car.  Ouch! 

If your warranty expires today, here’s a few starters to keep the car going strong and to keep your wallet out of harm’s way.

1.  Find an independent BMW Service facility that you can trust or that was recommended to you by a friend.  Independent Facilities will save you a lot of money, but they can also take you for a ride so proceed with caution.  Visit http://www.bimrs.org.  This website hosts a network of Independent BMW Service Facilities across the world and will most likely have a member shop in your area.  I can’t vouch for all of them, but this is a great starting point in finding a good Independent BMW Service facility.

2.  Get an oil change!  Chances are you’re way past due.  Sticking to the 15,000 mile oil change policy is a great way to kill your BMW.  After that oil change, get your next one done “on the fives”  This will make things easy for you as your oil changes will be done at 55, 60, 65, 70k, etc.

3.  Get your BMW detailed.  Keeping the paint and interior clean and fresh will keep you happy to drive the car.  No one wants to drive a car that some kid fingered the words “Wash Me” on the rear glass.  Clean cars look good, detailed cars look incredible.

4. Plan ahead.  During your first visit to an Independent BMW Service facility, get a list of things to expect in the future, with estimates, so you know what’s coming down the road.  In general, people like surprises, but not the ones that clean out your bank account.

Customers always ask me if they should keep their cars.   There is always a balance to strike between age of the car and the costs associated with it compared to owning a new one.  While the comfort of a new BMW with a blanket warranty is nice, it is not always an option.  BMWs still remain to be a great car that can run forever, they just need a little more help than they did in the 80’s.  If you are out of the warranty period, and you’re going to keep the car, try to get on these four things as soon as possible for smooth sailing in the future.

 

Chris Keefer

 

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW and the Monterey Historics

A visit to the Monterey Historics should be on the ‘list of things to see before you die’ for any fan of vintage cars.  It is just around the corner, running from 8/15-8/17, see www.montereyhistoric.com for more details.  What the website won’t tell you is just how incredible this experience can be, and that you really need to be there for a full week.  There are many events not to miss, especially the concours events that are not really part of the Rolex event, but always coincide with the weekend.  This is a bit of a snap-shot from my last visit which was two years ago.

Far left is Rug Cunningham (since deceased) of Cunningham BMW.  He was one of the great dealership owners who had an extreme passion for BMW racing and was a staple of the historics as long as BMW was allowed in the gates.  Toward the middle is Boris Said, a successful GT Driver and current NASCAR driver for NoFear.  I first met Boris at a BMW tech conference in St. Louis and see him at different events here and there.  Incredibly edgy driver and a nice guy. 

Above is BMW of North America’s 3.5CSL race car driven by Boris Said.  Below is another 3.5CSL owned by Rug Cunningham; a car that we are pretty familiar with.  Carl Nelson built the transmissions and differentials for this car throughout the years which usually meant that we’d have 5 of each apart in late March to get at least two very strong examples to run at Monterey in August.  I somewhat saved this car after the practice runs as the exhaust nuts on all of the headers had backed off without any of the crew catching it.

Aside from BMWs, there are so many cars there to race that you suffer from sensory overload!  What makes this event special is that you pretty much have full access to all of the race pits and are able to get up close and personal with cars that you never even knew existed. 

 

Vic Edelbrock and his daughter hanging out behind their fleet of beautiful American Muscle cars.

You’ll also see more Ferraris than you’ll ever see in your lifetime all in one place.  This vintage formula car really caught my attention.

I’ve got hundreds of pictures from when I was there.  I’m not sure when I’ll go again as the shop is super busy and someone needs to keep things running no matter what event is taking place.  But I will go back!  If you’ve debated about going in the past, drop your excuses and just get there.  It’s also a great family trip as the non gear-heads have plenty to keep them busy in Monterey and Carmel, both beautiful small towns on the California Coast. 

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

Profile – BMW e30 325i – A new Classic

If you are looking for a Classic BMW, but you’re not prepared to spend upwards of $15,000, you just can’t beat the BMW e30 3-series. The ‘e30′ was delivered to the US Market between about 1984-1992, but I’d stick to the 325i versions from 1987-1992.  You can get them cheap, they are extremely reasonable to service, and they are a blast to drive.  What more can you ask for in an older BMW?  The e30 was available in various engine and interior combinations over the years, but the two that stand out are the 325ic and the 325is from about 1987-1992.

The BMW e30 325ic (1987-1992) – BMW goes topless for the Masses  

Above is a 1991 325ic, a great choice for a fun ride that will turn heads.  In San Diego, you can currently pick up a decent 325ic candidate for under $2500.  As usual, have the car checked out to make certain that you haven’t purchased a money pit.  That said, expect to spend a decent amount to bring it up to a nice level.  Buy a car that doesn’t need paint or body work.  Solid colors like red, white, and black will have considerably better paint than any of the metallic colors such as silver or beige metallic. 

On the interior, get into a car that has a dashboard with little or no cracks, carpet that is not worn (dirty is ok), and door panels intact without speaker holes or other defects.  The seats will be re-upholstered and you’ll be getting a new top.  Plan to spend anywhere from $4-8k above the purchase price of the car to transform it into a really nice daily driver that’ll get you the occasional ‘thumbs-up’.

The BMW 325is – BMW Sports Edition without the ‘M’ Price

Above is a 1987 BMW 325is, a sporty car that handles incredibly well with room for upgrades in every area. What made this car great in the 80’s was that it was much cheaper than the famous M3, but with all the fun already built in.  This Bi-Polar BMW contained a sporty little demon that begged to be thrown around on the track and a smooth finish that could be dropped at the valet at a fine restaurant.

In stock form, it came with sport seats that hug you through the corners, and a factory sport suspension.  Spend in the area of $2-3k for a car that’s ready for some interior re-freshing and some mechanical refreshing.  Once road-ready, you’ll have a great daily driver that is perfect for auto-crossing and driving schools at the track.  Follow the same rules for buying a 325ic and you’ll be on your way to owning a great classic BMW.  There are many different options for upgrades, so make sure that the car is built to suit your needs.  If you only go to one or two autocross events a year, you don’t need a roll cage and fancy seat belts.

 These two BMWs were instant classics and were the quintessential yuppie mobiles of the late ’80s. They are growing into a credible collector car and have most modern amenities such as power windows and cruise control — a great balance of performance and comfort wrapped in a classic design. Once you’ve gone through the car and had it restored, expect to own a car that is fun to drive, extremely reliable, and reasonable to maintain compared to modern day BMWs.  What more can you ask for?

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Serive in San Diego

Tires for your BMW and the Run-Flat issue

Buying tires for your BMW can be expensive, and with so many brands these days that it can be hard to find what’s best for you and your car.  In San Diego we have it easy; all we use are High Performance Summer tires and never really have to worry about wet weather or snow.  If you live in an area that is subject to foul weather, my first suggestion is that you pick up another set of wheels and have all-weather tires mounted and keep them in your garage for when the weather gets bad.

Never ask for a recommendation from the salesperson at the tire shop.  They will recommend that you buy the tire they have in stock, and the tire that they make the highest margin on.   Do your research ahead of time and get the tire that you want.  If you live in Timbuktu where there is only one tire store, have them order the one that you wanted.  It’s my opinion that you cannot get a better deal on tires than the prices offered by both Discount Tire and Tire Rack; Discount Tire has the edge as they have nationwide locations while Tire Rack is on-line only and you’ll have to get them installed on your own.

If you have run-flat tires on your car, use them up and never buy them again.  Run-flats are like buying running shoes from payless for your upcoming marathon, except they are more expensive than real tires.  Don’t worry about not having a spare, that’s what AAA is for.  If you think your BMW handles great with the run-flats, just wait until you get real tires on the car; you’ll never buy them again. Now, if you have bad luck and get a flat more than once a year, you might just want to stick with the run-flats, but most of us rarely have been stranded on the freeway with a flat.

Brands not to buy (they’re cheap for a reason!):

Sumitomo

General

Warrior

Big-O

Avon

Falken

Barum

Riken

Hankook

Cooper

I’ve hand nothing but problems with all of the above when fitted to a BMW.  Remember that BMWs have very aggressive suspension set-ups when compared to the rest of the cars on the road.  Falken tires might actually do well on a Honda Civic, but put them on your BMW and you’ll be buying another set of shoes within the year.

Brands that have good tires(but be careful as not all of their models are good; hit-or-miss, so read customer reviews, especially those that have fitted them to BMWs):

Michelin – You just can’t go wrong as every tire they produce seems to be a winner, but you’ll pay dearly to ride along with the Michelin Man.

Bridgestone – Their potenza line has had great success on BMWs.  They wear well and exhibit great handling, but again, not cheap.

Continetial – a ‘good’ tire company.  Their tires will always do the job and last, but there is nothing special about them and they aren’t known for performance.

Pirelli – Be really careful, only buy their best tire.  Pirelli had a great name in the 80’s, but I’ve been less than impressed with the tires they’ve been producing over the last few years.

Dunlop – Same as Pirelli, be really careful an only buy their best tire

Goodyear – I like their Eagle line but I’ve not had much experience with much else from them.

Yokohama – Yokohama and Yoko Ono seem to be a lot alike – seemed ok at first and then things take a turn for the worse.  I used to love Yokohama, and still want to, but they started getting a bit whimpy on their sidewall strength causing problems for anything heavier than a 3-series.  So again, usually a great tire, but they have limitations

Toyo – Same as Yokohama, almost like they are made in the same factory.

Kuhmo – Personally, they have always been on the fence for me, a cheaper tire that I’ve had both good and bad results with, but they seem to be making an effort.

In my opinion the best tire for your money is the BF Goodrich G-Force Sport.  I LOVE this tire.  They are running around $115-145 a tire and have been outstanding since I first bought them over 3 years ago.  Research on tires is key before you buy!  Tires continually change and the best way to stay ahead is to be informed before you purchase a new set.  The last thing anyone wants is to get a new set of tires on their BMW only to have to replace them within a year. 

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

Oil and your BMW – Which is the Best?

There really is no ‘best’ oil to pour in the engine of your BMW, after all, if there was one that shined completely above the rest you’d be buying it.  Engine Oil has always been a great debate for those that are a bit serious about their service.  I sometimes feel that debating about oil brands is much like squabbling over which Brewery produces the best Lager.  I love beer, and I’ve had some really crap beers (especially in college) and I’ve had some really good beers.  Same can be said for Oil.  Crappy oil is the stuff that is really cheap, has generic packaging and there is usually almost all of it still on the shelf – the ‘Natrual Light’ of oils.  Hopefully none of you are using that stuff, or worse yet, drinking that sort of beer.

I find that the most common oils in the great debate are Mobile-1, Castrol, Royal Purple, and Amsoil.  I should say that I am not a fluids expert, I’ve done no crazy amount of testing on any of these oils, nor have I read 15 different case studies that have — this is all based on experience (and opinion).  Aside from all the great things that oil does for any engine, modern BMWs need oil to feed both the Vanos unit(s) as well as the hydraulic lifters (if your engine has them).  Now for my super scientific test results.

Mobil-1

I don’t like Mobil-1.  It’s the most popular oil, and a lot of folks swear by it, but I just don’t like it.  Many cars come in to the shop with the engine sounding like a rotating barrel of marbles and most of them have one thing in common — the owner uses nothing but Mobil-1.  One customer had a 1998 M3 running Mobil-1 and his hydraulic lifters were making a racket with Mobil-1; I switched him into Castrol Syntec 5w-30 and within 30 seconds the valve noise was almost completely gone.  I’m sure that Mobil-1 is a good oil, it just doesn’t seem to agree with BMWs all the time for some reason, so I never use it and never will.

Amsoil

I just can’t use this stuff.  It reminds me of Avon cosmetics and buying encyclopedia’s from a door-to-door salesman.  The guys who are selling it always seem to remind me of a cross between a shoe salesman and the ‘kids’ who try to sell me magazines to support their baseball team when they are clearly 10 years past their last time at bat for little league.  If you’re not smart enough to come up with a decent marketing plan, what makes me think your oil is any good?  I just don’t trust it, and a BMW engine is not the platform to ‘try something new and different!’

Castrol Syntec

Talk about marketing, these guys have it handled.  BMW has been endorsing Castrol since the early 1990’s and I have to say that I’ve never had anything but good results using Castrol.  I think it is a great oil and seems to do really well in BMWs.  It is reasonably priced, and you pretty much can get it anywhere.  If you are using it and like it, stick with it.  Tip- you can buy ‘factory oil’ at your nearest dealership, which is Castrol Syntec in a BMW bottle, at almost a dollar less per quart.

Royal Purple

This stuff is expensive.  I know some people that love it and I ask them why and they really don’t have a valid answer.  It’s usually two to five dollars more per quart than the others and I just don’t see the need to be ultra spendy.  It’s kinda like buying corn flakes at Whole Foods, same basic flake, but at the Whole Foods price.  It seems to be really good oil, but at that price why bother? There are other options that are great and less expensive.

What do we use? Here’s a list of the current engine oils that we have had the best luck with along with their applications:

Kendall 20w-50

In my opinion this is the best oil you can put in your BMW if it requires non-synthetic oil.  The only problem with Kendall is that it can be hard to get in the retail market.  A good alternative would be Castrol GTX.

Castrol Syntec 5w-30

This is the factory recommended oil and it works great and it is reasonably priced.

Elf (or Total) 5w-30

Elf oil has long been popular in the European market and well known in F-1 racing.  They tried to introduce it to the US market in the early 1990’s but no one could get past the name ‘Elf’ as it reminds us of little guys climbing out trees with a boxes of cookies.  So they are now using the name ‘Total’ for the US market and I really like this oil. 

I first gave Elf a try in my drama queen of an M5 which was consuming about 2 quarts of oil every 3k miles with the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.  Using Elf’s 10w-60 has cut my oil consumption in half, and when I change my oil I like the way the used oil looks in comparison. My car just seems happier with it.

Elf 10w-60 and Castrol TWS 10w-60

These oils are for use in newer M-series engines and are expensive.  Of the two, I highly recommend the Elf based solely on the results it has produced on my own car. 

All things considered, everyone needs to relax a bit about oil.  There’s really not one oil that is best across the board.  If you are overly concerned about oil, read different oil comparison test results, or you’re sending used oil samples out for analysis, this tells me that you are doing one thing right – changing your oil frequently enough. 

The best thing you can do is frequent oil changes no matter what you are using, and to continually check your oil level between changes.  Like I tell my customers, vegetable oil is better than none at all . . .

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego

BMW and You – 10 things You can do

Working on your own car used to be a big part of Americana, but with the increasing amount of computers, wires, and nifty engine covers, those days are gone.  However, there are some things you can do to keep your BMW running and looking good, and they are simple.

1. Check your oil

Do this on the first day of each month.  You might want to stuff a rag in your trunk that you use only to check the oil level.  At La Jolla Independent BMW, we sometimes put a spare quart of oil in our customers’ trunks so that they can re-fill if needed.  If you have a newer BMW without an oil dipstick, you can do an oil level check via the on-board computer — learn how to do this.  Proper oil level and oil changes are essential to the longevity of your BMW.

 

2. Wash it, clay it, wax it – or find someone who can.

It can be time-consuming and, depending on where you live, it might be illegal for you to do it in your driveway.  However, your paint is continually bombarded with dirt and environmental fallout that can destroy its finish.  I recommend that you have a complete detail done to your BMW at least twice a year that would include claying the car, followed by a waxing of the paint.  Buffing the paint can also be beneficial, but should only be performed by an experienced detailer.

3. Keep gas in the tank

“Quarter-tankers” are those who cruise into the gas station running on fumes and put a whopping $10 worth of gas in the tank to get them around.  Unless you are selling your car tomorrow, fill the damn tank up!  While Jackson Browne loves “Running on Empty”, your BMW hates it and will lead to future repair bills that can be avoided.

4. Check your tire pressure

Buy a tire pressure gauge and keep it in the glove box.  When you are filling up your tank at the gas station, check your tire pressure.  On the inside of your driver’s door, there is a rough guide for proper pressure.  Just because it looks like there is enough air in the tires, doesn’t mean there is.  Check it regularly to save your tires and maximize your handling and gas mileage.

5. Exercise your windows and sunroof

I replace a lot of window regulators (they make the window go up and down).  Usually I replace them on the windows that are used the least.  Opening and closing all of your BMW’s windows and sunroof on a regular basis will keep them lubricated and functioning properly.  Just don’t do it while it’s raining out.

6. Be careful in parking lots/garages

BMWs are low in the front, and have many plastic components that don’t get along with bumper strips in parking lots and garages.  I constantly see and repair torn bumpers and fender liners due to these bumper strips.  If you frequent areas that have these, park the car about a foot shorter into the spot as so you don’t introduce your plastic to concrete.

7. Use your A/C, even if you don’t use A/C

Aside from Freon in your air conditioning system, there is also a decent amount of oil to keep the compressor and other components working to full potential.  If they sit for too long without movement, it will lead to a noisy compressor ($$$) and dry seals.  If you live in a cold climate, at least turn the A/C on twice in the winter for about 5 minutes to get it moving.

8. Open your hood

Even if you haven’t a clue what you’re looking at, if you opened your hood and saw a bird’s nest in there you’d know it doesn’t belong (I’ve seen this happen).  You might actually see something amiss such as an oil leak or cracked belts and save yourself from a break-down.

9. Drive it, drive it, drive it

BMWs hate to sit around as much as a kid with a wicked case of ADD.  These cars were built to be driven hard, not abused, but driven hard.  If you are driving around like a grandmother on her way to Sunday mass, take it out on the freeway once in awhile and put the pedal to the metal and let it run free a bit. 

10. Know your maintenance and keep a journal.

Understanding what repairs you’ve done in the past and what is needed in the future allows you to plan ahead and keeps your BMW running strong.  If you hear a weird noise that only happens once in awhile, write down when it happens, how fast you are going, time of day, etc. as it will greatly assist your BMW mechanic in getting to the root of the problem.

None of these things are difficult to do. Remember, I don’t have your car on a daily basis, you do.  Staying on top of these simple things will decrease the amount you spend on service per year, prevent avoidable damage to your BMW, and retain as much of the car’s value as possible when you decide to sell.

Chris Keefer

La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego